A conversation with Jonah's sommelier on Italian grandmothers, coastal wine philosophy, and why the best pairings can be life-changing.
Georgina Larsson is one of Australia's most experienced sommeliers, with a career spanning the country's most prestigious dining rooms – from Aria and Grossi Florentino to Barangaroo House and The Lake House. Today, as Head Sommelier at Jonah's Restaurant & Boutique Hotel, she oversees a 1,600+ bottle wine list that won Australia's Best List of Wines by the Glass in 2024. Her philosophy is rooted in a single formative moment at a kitchen table in Sorrento – and the infinite curiosity it ignited. At Jonah's, she leads a by-the-glass program spanning Santorini Assyrtiko to Australian Aligotè, Champagne to Sake, with 60+ wines by the glass offering guests world-class experiences where the Pacific meets the plate.
What first sparked your passion for wine, and was there a particular bottle, place, or moment that made you realise this was more than just a job?
"I was the manager of a very traditional Italian Restaurant in London for a number of years and part of the job was to purchase Italian wines. I had a steep learning curve, finding out about regional Italian varietals and how and why they partnered with their regional cuisines. An incongruous but life changing moment was at a friend's house in Sorrento, when Nonna greeted me straight from the airport in the late evening with locally raised roast chicken accompanied by Treccia Mozzarella di Buffala and a Summer tomato salad accompanied by a flask of local Vino di Tavola. Everything tasted naturally and wholly of itself…everything belonged together...and each flavour enhanced the other, this created a cornerstone for all future wine and food experiences ahead, the simple and the profound, and thanks to Nonna ignited an infinite curiosity."
Jonah's sits in a very specific context – destination dining, coastal luxury, and a sense of occasion. How does that setting influence the way you think about wine by the glass versus what might work in a city restaurant?
"The Jonah's setting is very special. A destination boutique hotel that continues to honour the hospitality of the original site, established nearly 100 years ago on a dirt road, at the edge of paradise, we offer warmth and hospitality for the intrepid traveller and a familial atmosphere to our locals. We want you to stay and enjoy what we have to offer. A quality wine by the glass program that leans into the best international wine experiences by the sea, paired with our amazing seafood. Flavours of Santorini Assyrtiko, Etna Bianco, Chablis, an array of Sake while strongly leaning into Australia's ever expanding white varietal selection, introducing Aligote, Vermentino and Grenache Blanc. Champagne, Vintage sparkling, Iconic Australian first releases, cellar treasures all make appearances on the wine list through our dynamic program."
Your list balances prestige with approachability. When you're deciding which wines deserve by-the-glass placement, what signals tell you a wine will genuinely resonate with guests rather than just impress on paper?
"Versatility with food and a sense of place is a must for any wine chosen for our by the glass program. I change the wines regularly, enabling me to promote differing aspects of each dish throughout the season whether it be to supercharge an herbaceous element, enlivening a citrus nuance or textural collaboration, while rotating experiences for regular diners."
Working in Australia gives you access to both world-class domestic wines and top-tier imports. How do you decide when to champion local producers by the glass versus leaning into global benchmarks?
"I'm always working on all of the above. Balance to the wine listing is essential and I'm determined to have something special for everyone at a range of price points, brand and varietal familiarity, with inspiring new and quality driven experiences for the adventurous."
When guests at Jonah's arrive with strong expectations and fixed ideas, how do you gently challenge those assumptions and open people up to something unexpected without over-educating or disrupting the experience?
"The very experienced wine team at Jonah's offer guests a range of options and experiences. We spend time at table to guide and service the needs of all our guests."
Are there any wines on your current by-the-glass list that surprised you in terms of guest response, either outperforming or underperforming expectations? What did that teach you?
"I recently added the fabulous 2020 Kir Yianni 'Ramnista' Xinomavro from Naoussa, Greece to pair with our Magra Lamb with currant and balsamic jus, feta and pea puree. I've been thrilled with the reception. It's such a classic pairing which elevates both wine and dish. 2018 Alex Retief Tumbarumba (Jura-inspired) Chardonnay has also proven its versatility in a superstar pairing with our housemade spinach Tagliolini with Mushroom, mint and Pecorino cream. Unique wines like these, when presented in context can truly be life changing experiences."
As fine dining evolves toward more relaxed, guest-led experiences, how do you see the sommelier's role changing in destination restaurants like yours?
"Variety and hospitality are the spice of life. Our highly experienced sommelier team at Jonah's offer many opportunities to elevate the guest experience. A 3 course wine-pairing program allows the guest to sit back and enjoy new and exotic wine products with elaborations on the product and why the pairings have been put together. Coravin systems allow access to all of our 60+ wines by the glass supported by an amazing selection of signature and classic cocktails, non-alcoholic options and premium spirits and rare liqueurs."
If you could sit down with one historical figure (dead or alive) over a single glass of wine, who would it be – and which wine are you drinking together?
"I am going to say Jesus, because the conversation and the wine wouldn't run out!"
Georgina Larsson
Jonah's Restaurant & Boutique Hotel, Australia
Images: Provided courtesy of Georgina Larsson & Jonah's.