Few names in London’s fine dining world embody the spirit of discovery quite like Fred Brugues, Wine Director at Sketch. With roots in Bordeaux and decades spent shaping one of the city’s most distinctive wine programs, Fred’s approach is both scholarly and soulful – blending deep respect for heritage with an unwavering curiosity for the new.

In this Beyond the Glass conversation, he reflects on his early influences, the philosophy behind Sketch’s 900-strong wine list, and the art of connecting people to wine with empathy and imagination.

Your journey began in Bordeaux and has taken you to one of London’s most iconic restaurants. Can you tell us how your path into wine unfolded, and what first sparked your passion?

“My grandfather was a great lover of wine and food. He gave me my first glass of wine when I was about ten years old — a bottle of Château Mouton-Rothschild 1929, opened for my grandmother’s birthday since it was her birth year. I disliked the taste then and spat it out! Yet even at that age, I was captivated by the world of wine. I remember visiting vineyards with him, watching the care and attention he poured into his cellar, and feeling the quiet reverence he had for every bottle.”

“A few years later, having been immersed in wine and food from such a young age thanks to my grandfather’s infectious joie de vivre, I joined a hospitality school. That path led me to a Sommelier Degree and a separate qualification in Bordeaux wines, which were at the forefront of the market at the time.”

You’ve been at Sketch since its very beginnings. What philosophies or mentors most shaped how you think about wine and hospitality today?

“In London, Marco Pierre White became perhaps my first true patron, giving me the opportunity to taste many old classics as well as wines that would later become classics and to build the foundation of my wine knowledge. Yet when it comes to wine, Pierre Gagnaire stands above all. He guided me in creating a wine list of my own, teaching me the art of listening first to the guests’ wishes.”

“I will dedicate the mentorship title to two very important people, beginning with Christophe Capron, to whom I owe my passion for the restaurant front-of-house scene. Everything I do on the floor is inspired by how I imagine he would have acted. I had the privilege of learning from him; someone widely regarded as a legend in the Mayfair restaurant industry.”

“Finally, Mourad Mazouz is a restaurateur who fascinates me endlessly. A true creator of places with soul. A heart that embraces both perfection and imperfection, and which is precisely what makes them the Lieux de Vie that they are.”

Sketch’s wine list is legendary – more than 900 bottles and 60+ BTG. How do you approach curating something so expensive while keeping it dynamic and personal?

“Never stop reading and learning. Don’t settle for what you already know or have discovered. Don’t be afraid to taste the unfamiliar, take a chance on something with potential, or bring forward what may not yet have been discovered. One of the greatest compliments I have ever received came from a former sommelier, who told me that he could not recognize a single grower name on my list.”

“It is equally important to honour the memory of the past with older, high-quality vintages from well-recognized growers, as they add depth to a wine list. Always be on the hunt for good allocations. Buying directly from the source at the right price allows you to control costs, and selling at the right price ensures you avoid speculation. When a wine becomes overpriced, despite its pedigree, it is okay to let it go.”

“We are fortunate to have access to a wide pool of exceptional wines. It is better not to list a wine at all than to list it at the wrong price.”

What’s one misconception guests often have about wine, and how do you help them see it differently?

“Wine can seem snobby and expensive. It is, of course, a complicated subject, but like a tango, it takes two to dance. When both sides are willing to listen and communicate in a language they both understand, the door opens. It is important not to assume someone already knows, and equally important to put ourselves in the other person’s shoes, asking: Would I enjoy this? Would this be acceptable if it were for me?”

“The art of wine is not just about tasting, vintages, or prices; it is about understanding people. A sommelier must bridge knowledge and experience with empathy, guiding without overwhelming, suggesting without imposing. Every choice on a wine list, every recommendation to a guest, is an opportunity to connect, to create a dialogue, and to celebrate discovery together.”

“Patience is essential. Some guests may not speak the language of wine fluently, and that is not a flaw; it is a chance for us to teach, to share our passion, and to make the experience memorable. Listening carefully, noticing reactions, and adjusting guidance are as important as the wines themselves.”

“Ultimately, wine is about respect for the craft, for the vintages, and for the people we serve. When we approach it with humility, curiosity, and empathy, we open doors not only to great wines but to moments of genuine connection and joy.”

If a guest only had time for one or two glasses, which wines would you pour – and what makes them special?

Outside of Sketch, tell us your go-to place for by-the-glass in London?

When asked for his favorite by-the-glass destination beyond Sketch, Fred doesn’t hesitate:
“Authentique – Epicerie & Bar in Tufnell Park.”

How do you see the role of a sommelier evolving in a world where people are drinking less, but seeking better experiences?

“People may drink less by volume today, but not by diversity. I believe the role of the sommelier has never been more important in restaurants: to guide guests and help them explore the vast pool of opportunities they may wish to try. Sommeliers can be one of the cornerstones in ensuring the next generation of consumers stays connected to wine, keeping curiosity and discovery alive.”

If you could enjoy a glass of wine with anyone dead or alive, who would it be, and why?

“My grandfather, of course… To honor him, to show him what he started, and somehow to demonstrate that a part of him, his passion for wine, still lives on through me.”

Fred Brugues
Wine Director, Sketch London
Images: Provided courtesy of Fred Brugues.