Christian Scarica, Wine Director at Affinatore in Milan, oversees one of Europe's most decorated wine programs – a 3,800-reference list that earned Best Long Wine List in Europe and Best Champagne & Sparkling Wine List in the World at the World's Best Wine Lists awards. The ambition behind that list traces back to a more modest beginning: his father's small local restaurant, where a well-placed bottle recommendation could earn a young Christian a tip, and where his instinct for reading guests first took root. That commercial awareness matured into a deep curiosity about terroir and tradition – from biodynamic vignerons expressing hyper-local identity to the iconic names of Barolo, Burgundy, and Champagne. At Affinatore, Christian channels that range into an equally ambitious by-the-glass program of over 90 wines, designed to give Milan's international clientele both the familiar classics they trust and the unexpected producers he believes they should discover.

How did your journey into wine start? Was there an early experience or bottle that helped shape the way you approach wine professionally today?

"I was introduced to wine through my father's small, local restaurant. For example, he'd challenge me – if there was a table of four, and I managed to sell three bottles, he'd give me a little tip. It wasn't a rule for every table, but it sparked a challenge in me."

"That's how I started wanting to really understand wine – not just to sell it, but to be better at it."

As your knowledge has deepened over time, has your personal relationship with wine changed – either in what you drink for pleasure or how you think about wine outside of work?

"Over the years, wine evolved into a professional foundation for me. I was able to combine my personal passion – what began as a hobby – into a career. And that's the best thing that could happen. My interest has always grown naturally, never feeling forced by work."

"I've always enjoyed drinking wine even outside of work – in moments of relaxation or shared with good company. For me, the beauty of wine is never in drinking it alone, but in sharing it with someone who can enjoy it with you."

Milan is a city where tradition and modernity constantly collide. How does that tension show up in the way you curate a by-the-glass list at Affinatore?

"In Milan, with such a diverse clientele – both young Italians and international guests, often older – we need a by-the-glass selection that's dynamic and broad. We're compelled to offer iconic, classic wines – both Italian and international – but also wines that you might call 'in vogue.'"

"These are wines that tell a story – expressing terroir – while also being approachable and easy to drink."

Italy has extraordinary depth, yet many guests still default to familiar regions or grapes. What's your approach to expanding people's comfort zones without alienating them?

"First of all, building trust with the guest is key. I always begin by listening to what they enjoy. Once they know I've understood their tastes, I can then guide them toward a wine that shares some of those familiar notes – whether in aroma or style – but with a different approach."

"Maybe it's from an unexpected Italian region or even the New World, but it still resonates with what they already appreciate. That way, they feel comfortable exploring, not pushed."

From a practical standpoint, what are the biggest challenges of running a serious by-the-glass program in Italy, where cellar culture and bottle-centric thinking may still dominate?

"Actually, it's been a year since we decided to create a significant by-the-glass program – we now have over 90 wines by the glass. We're extremely satisfied, as we've increased glass sales by 200% in volume and revenue. If you offer a broad selection, sales will grow."

"The challenge is ensuring rotation so wines aren't open too long. Luckily, with Coravin, that issue is basically solved, letting us keep wines fresh for a long time."

Is there a principle or belief about wine service that you've had to unlearn as your experience has grown – and what replaced it?

"When I was young, my grandmother used to say that to keep sparkling wine fizzy, you just needed to put a teaspoon in the neck of the bottle. It's an Italian 'legend' I had to unlearn. Of course, after a night, the wine is completely flat!"

"So, I replaced it with proper preservation methods – like using a real sparkling wine stopper!"

Are there specific Italian regions or producers you feel are still misunderstood by the glass, and how are you trying to reposition them for today's diners?

"Some natural producers have caused skepticism because certain wines come across as cloudy or too rustic. But there are other natural or biodynamic producers making wines that are absolutely clean, elegant, and excellent."

"The key is to help guests discover them without preconceptions. I serve these wines without mentioning the natural approach upfront. Once they enjoy it, I reveal it afterward. That way, they see for themselves that it's all about quality, not the label."

If you could sit down with one historical figure (dead or alive) over a single glass of wine, who would it be – and which wine are you drinking together?

"I'd gladly share a glass of Lafite Rothschild 1990 with Silvio Berlusconi. An aged, refined red would be perfect for a conversation like that – something with history and character, to match the moment."

Christian Scarica
Wine Director, Affinatore, Milan
Images: Provided courtesy of Christian Scarica